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Our Inspiration!
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The first step in making a couture jacket is
to achieve a perfect fitting muslin.
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After your muslin is fitted to perfection,
the muslin is taken apart. The seam allowances are
removed, and the muslin pieces are used as a pattern.
Usually you will have three pattern pieces for each of the
front sides, and three pattern pieces of each of the back
sides. You will also have three pattern pieces for
each sleeve.
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Katherine is ready to cut out her jacket.
She will add a two inch seam allowance all around each
pattern piece. This will allow Jane to give her a
perfect fit and still have large seam allowances.
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The sewing line on each pattern pieces is
marked in thread. Then the lining is quilted to each
piece.
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Clara uses a walking foot to assist her
in quilting the lining to the fashion fabric.
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The lining side will show the quilting
lines. The lines are always about 1 inch away from any
seam, and about 1 or 1.5 inches apart. Note the quilting lines do not extend all the
way to the bottom of the pieces.
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The seams of the fashion fabric pieces are
then sewn together. The lining is kept loose at this
point. The seams of the fashion fabric are pressed on
a seam pressing board.
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And now it is time for another fitting with
Jane! Barbara has an added challenge of matching the
fabric pattern on all of the pieces. What would we all
do if we didn't have Jane!!!
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After fitting the jacket, its time for Jane
to hang the sleeve for Barbara.
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Debbie has the lining side out for this fitting.
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The fashion fabric side has its own fitting. |
Cheryl is ready for her first fitting with Jane.
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Ellen presses the sleeves. |
Sharon is happy with the fit.
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Vickie enjoys the hand stitching.
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The lining pieces are all hand sewn.
The lower lining section in the photo is pinned along the
seam line of the fashion fabric. Then lining section
on the upper half of the photo is turned under so its seam
line will be right on top of the pin line (and thus right on
top of the fashion fabric's seam line).
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The sleeve lining is also hand sewn.
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Barbara uses the dress form to help with the
lining pieces.
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Sharon is having Jane examine the fit
and sewing lines with the lining side showing.
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Shopping for the trim is a fun part of this
project. Some of the students found their trim at
Britex in San Francisco. Others were lucky to be with
Jane on retreat in Asilomar, and have her help with the
selections at Finding's in Carmel.
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